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Procedures
Overview
This page provides an overview of the procedures used on Northern Light, a Santana 35.
This overview purposefully leaves out many details – the goal is to give everyone an understanding of the commands that we use and
the major responsibilities of each crew member during each section of a race. Click the links below to jump to a specific section of the
race:
Click the checkboxes below to highlight the tasks for specific positions:
For details about each position – including instructions on how to do the tasks for that position,
and tips on when to prepare and things to avoid – go to the top-level Procedures page and click the
links for specific positions. If you're not familiar with some of the terms or concepts in the procedures, look them up in the
Glossary and review the Sailing Basics page.
Start of Race
- start timer
-
- before we leave the dock:
- sync your watch with a clock that is synced to the atomic clock (this will help you count down the time to the first shape,
which is at PRECISELY 6:30pm for most races)
- set your countdown timer to 5:00 minutes (this assumes we're in Class D, which starts 5 minutes after the first
shape)
- set your countdown timer to 10:00 minutes (this assumes we're in Class E, which starts 10 minutes after the
first shape)
- count down the time to the first shape in the start-of-race sequence
- as mentioned above, the first shape is scheduled for precisely 6:30pm
- call out how many minutes are left, and when there is less than 1 minute left, call out the seconds: “60 seconds to
first shape ... 50 seconds ... 40 seconds ... 30 seconds ... 20 seconds ... 10,9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1,first shape”
- when the race committee puts up the first shape, start your countdown timer
- count down the time to the start signal for our class
(Class D, scheduled to start at 6:35pm)(Class E, scheduled to start at 6:40pm)
- as before, call out the minutes and then the seconds
- immediately after the start signal, look to see if the race committee puts up either the individual recall flag or the general
recall flag (see recall flags) – if so, shout
“RECALL”
- navigator
-
- before we leave the dock:
- locate a GPS unit and check its battery level (put in new batteries if necessary)
- make sure you have a “start of race cheat sheet” (a small laminated card that lists all the courses)
- when we're near the start line, enter a new waypoint in the GPS for the location of the race committee boat
- remember the new waypoint number (e.g., waypoint # 012), and tell Andy this waypoint number after the race
- after the warning signal for our class (6:30pm6:35pm),
read and call out our course # (see pennants)
- ask Rod which end of the start line we are aiming for – the race committee boat or the buoy SC1 – and set the GPS
to navigate to that waypoint
- compare the ETE with how much time is left before the start signal, and advise Rod on when to turn the boat and start heading
toward the start line (see start timing for details)
- when (time-to-start-signal minus ETE) = 2:40, tell Rod we should turn the boat around in 1 minute
- when (time-to-start-signal minus ETE) = 0:40, tell Rod we should turn the boat around now
- as we head back toward the start line, time-to-start-signal should be about 10 seconds greater than ETE
- if time-to-start-signal is much more than 10 seconds ahead of ETE, tell Rod we're going to be early
- if time-to-start-signal is less than ETE, tell Rod we're going to be late
- pulpit (start)
-
- prior to the start, stand in the pulpit and sight the start line in both directions: line up the ends of the start line
(the buoy SC1 and the orange flag on the race committee boat) with a fixed object on either side of the line, and remember the
fixed object on each side of the start line
- as we get close to the start line on our final approach, gauge how close we are to the line by using one the fixed objects you
sighted down the line (when the fixed object lines up with the buoy SC1 or the orange flag, we are on top of the start line)
- point your free arm down (toward the water), and raise your arm slowly toward the sky as we get closer to the start line:
- when we are one boat length (35 feet) away from the start line, start raising your arm
- when we are ½ boat length away from the line, your arm should be at 90° (parallel with the water)
- when we are exactly on the start line, your arm should be at 180° (pointing straight up to the sky)
- if we are over the line, wave your arm from side-to-side over your head
- after the race committee gives the start signal, go sit up on the windward rail with your weight out
- driver
-
- sail on a close reach to build up speed as we head up to the start line
- watch the pulpit crew to gauge how close we are to the start line – see “pulpit (start)” directly above
- turn up to a close haul as we go across the start line
- captain
-
- “slow speed” – ease out the sails so that the boat speed goes down to about 50%
- “kill speed” – let out the sails completely (but be prepared to bring them back
in quickly)
- mainsheet
-
- make sure the boom lift is off
- make sure the twanger is on (pull it in so that is has about 1.5 feet of slack, and cleat it off)
- check that the crew has adjusted the mainsail control lines for a close haul: boom vang off; outhaul flattener on; runner on;
cunningham – tensioned just enough to get rid of wrinkles in the luff; leech line – tensioned just enough to
stop the leech from fluttering
- on “SLOW SPEED:” ease out the mainsail so that our speed goes down to about 50%
- on “KILL SPEED:” let out the mainsheet completely, but be prepared to bring it back in quickly
- trim the main to close-hauled as we go around the race committee boat or the buoy SC1
- outhaul
-
- put on the outhaul flattener
- grinder 1
-
- start 3 electronic items:
- handheld radio: clip the radio to one of the winch handle holders and start monitoring channel 78
- GoPro camera: make sure the camera is recording
- GPS watch: start the timer to record our track:
training → START (= upper button) → lap screen → lock bezel → LAP (= lower button) on first shape
- remind skirts: take care of the skirt as we head up and cross the start line
- announce pennants and course
- grinders
-
- tension the cunningham just enough to get rid of wrinkles in the luff of the mainsail
- after the last tack or jibe, put on the windward runner
- on “SLOW SPEED:” ease out the jib so that our speed goes down to about 50%
- on “KILL SPEED:” blow the jib sheet completely, but be prepared to bring it back in quickly
- trim the jib to close-hauled as we go around the RC boat or the buoy SC1
- skirts
-
- stay close to the jib as we come up to the start line
- when the grinders bring in the jib, lift the foot of the jib and place it inside the lifelines
- boat spotters
-
- look for your assigned boat (see fleet info) and call out when you see it
- call out what your assigned boat is doing (e.g., “Highlighter is right behind us” or “Highlighter
turned around and is heading back toward the race committee boat”)
- heel director
-
- when we are within 2 minutes of the start signal for our class, ask all crew members who are not working to sit on the rail and
get their weight out as far as possible – everyone should have their butt on the metal toe rail (as opposed to the deck) and
their head under the top lifeline
- radio
-
- before we leave the dock:
- locate either the mounted radio or one of the handheld radios
- if you will be using a handheld radio, turn it on to make sure it works (put in new batteries if necessary)
- set the radio to channel 78
- turn the radio off until a few minutes before the first shape (6:30pm)
- prior to the start of the race, monitor channel 78 for any messages from the race committee (e.g., if there's a postponement)
- if the race committee puts up an individual recall flag immediately after the
start of our race
(6:35pm6:40pm6:50pm),
get in touch with the race committee and find out which boat(s) have been recalled
- after the start of the race, turn off the radio (and also the boat battery if you used the mounted radio)
- everyone who's not working
-
- sit on the rail with your weight out and your head under the top lifeline
- after the warning signal for our class (6:30pm6:35pm), confirm our
course # (see pennants)
- as we go across the start line, look to see if the race committee boat puts up either the individual recall flag or the general
recall flag (see recall flags) – if so, call out
“RECALL”
Sailing to Weather
- captain
-
- “travel up” or “travel down”
- “sheet in” or “sheet out” (for the main)
- “jib in” or “jib out”
- driver
-
- for a close haul, align the tail of the Windex with the leeward box
- constantly test the telltales on the jib by steering up until the windward telltale starts to break, and then steering down
slightly
- mainsheet
-
- if close hauled: move the traveller just past the wood rail on the windward side, and bring in the mainsheet tightly
- if not close hauled: let out the mainsheet until the luff of the mainsail starts to break
- adjust the traveller and the mainsheet based on directions from Rod, “wind gust” calls from the crew, and
jib adjustments by the grinders
- travel down before a wind gust hits us, and travel back up afterwards
- let out the main if we get overpowered
- let out the main when the grinders let out the jib; bring in the main when the grinders bring in the jib
- check that the crew has adjusted the mainsail control lines: boom vang off; outhaul flattener on; runner on (if close hauled);
cunningham – tensioned just enough to get rid of wrinkles in the luff; leech line – tensioned just enough to
stop the leech from fluttering
- grinder 1
-
- if close-hauled:
- bring the jib in all the way (# 95: the clew should be ~ 6 inches from the car block and the leech should have a very slight
curve; # 130: the leech should be almost touching the shrouds)
- sit on the rail, but pay attention to wind strength (when wind picks up → sheet in; when wind dies down → sheet
out)
- when you go down into the cockpit to adjust the jib or do other work, take a quick look to see if there are any
boats on the leeward side where the driver can't see (in the 10-12 o'clock or 12-2 o'clock positions)
- if not close-hauled:
- stay on the rail and trim the jib so both telltales fly back smoothly (watch the telltales constantly – the green
telltale is on the starboard side, the red telltale is on the port side; adjust the jib sheet constantly; call out adjustments
to the mainsheet trimmer)
- additional controls:
- light wind: car block–forward; runner–loose; jib sheet–eased out (leech 2" off regular position);
jib halyard–loose
- heavy wind: car block–back; runner–tight; jib sheet–regular; jib halyard–tight
- adjust the jib leech line and foot line if necessary (tension just until the leech or foot stops fluttering)
- grinder 2
-
- if close-hauled: sit on the rail, but pay attention to wind strength (when wind picks up → sheet in; when wind dies
down → sheet out)
- if not close-hauled: go in the cockpit and grind the jib sheet as necessary (get both telltales flying back smoothly – note
that the jib must be adjusted constantly)
- call out the heel angle periodically, e.g. “heel 15”
- navigator
-
- set the GPS to navigate to the weather mark
- call out the TURN angle to the mark, and advise Rod on when to tack (our tack angle is ~ 80°)
- call out our VMG periodically, as well as before and after we make adjustments (e.g., shift crew weight)
- as soon as anyone spots the mark, tell Rod so he can get a visual to the mark
- boat spotters
-
- watch your assigned boat closely – call out if you see that it has caught good wind on another part of the course and is
moving on us
- call out when your assigned boat tacks
- heel director
-
- ask all crew members who are not working to sit on the rail and get their weight out as far as possible (butts on the metal toe
rail and heads under the lifeline)
- monitor the heel angle closely (ask the grinders to read out the actual heel angle, and remember that our ideal heel angle is
10° to 15°)
- if the wind dies down and the boat heels less than 10° (i.e., if the boat stands up almost straight), ask crew members to
shift their weight in (toward the centerline of the boat)
- if the wind picks back up and the boat heels more than 15°, ask crew members to shift their weight back out
- everyone who's not working
-
- sit on the rail with your weight out – put your butt on the metal toe rail (as opposed to the deck) and your head under the
top lifeline
- call out wind puffs to cockpit
- call out nearby boats that Rod may not be able to see (including cargo ships if they’re moving)
- call out when you see the mark
Tacking
- grinder 1
-
- climb down into the cockpit
- move the winch handle from the leeward (low) primary winch to the windward (high) winch
- prepare 3 lines (do a triangular sweep with the mnemonic “high tension” – “low tension” –
“under tension”):
- high side, lazy jib sheet: wrap the line around the primary winch, and tension it
- low side, lazy runner: wrap the line around the secondary winch, and tension it
- low side, working jib sheet: make sure the line runs clean and is ready to blow; uncleat and hold the line
- confirm “GRINDERS READY”
- grinder 2
-
- turn around so your back is to the lifelines (stay on the rail)
- uncleat the runner and hold it in your hand
- grinder 2
-
- when the captain says “READY ABOUT,” blow the runner
- driver
-
- push the tiller away from you and turn the boat quickly through the tack
- mainsheet
-
- uncleat the traveller
- cross the boat and sit on the other side
- note: always keep the mainsheet in your hand in case you need to depower the boat immediately
- move the traveller just past the wood rail on the new windward side and cleat it off
- lazy jib sheet puller
-
- shortly after the captain says “READY ABOUT,” move across the boat and crouch down along the lifelines, facing the
cockpit
- reach well in front of you and grab the jib sheet with your free hand
- when the grinders blow the jib sheet off the winch in the cockpit, pull the jib sheet with LONG, FAST arm motions
TOWARD THE BOW
- if the jib sheet gets jammed at the turning block near the cockpit, give the jib sheet repeated, hard jerks to clear the jam
- if the bowline knots get stuck at the shrouds or at the mast, ask the clew walker to move the clew around the shrouds/mast
- if the jib sheet gets stuck somewhere else, do whatever it takes to clear the jam, or give LOUD instructions to the crew about
where/how the jib sheet is stuck (e.g., “COCKPIT – SOMEONE'S STANDING ON THE LAZY”)
- working jib sheet puller
-
- do not cross the boat – stay on the high side and crouch down along the lifelines, facing the bow
- reach well in front of you and grab the jib sheet with your free hand
- when the grinders blow the jib sheet off the winch in the cockpit, pull the jib sheet with LONG, FAST arm motions TOWARD THE
COCKPIT
- if the jib sheet gets stuck anywhere, do whatever it takes to clear the jam, or give LOUD instructions to the crew about
where/how the jib sheet is stuck (e.g., “COCKPIT – SOMEONE'S STANDING ON THE LAZY”)
- after the jib crosses to your side of the boat, pull the jib sheet HARD and hold the clew (the corner of the jib) as close to the
cockpit as possible while the grinders grind in the jib to its final position
- when the jib is in position, cross the boat to the new high side, sit on the rail, and get your weight out as far as possible
- clew walker
-
- shortly after the captain says “READY ABOUT,” move across the boat and get into position near the shrouds
- when the grinders blow the jib sheet off the winch in the cockpit, watch the jib clew and the bowline knots as they go around the
shrouds on your side of the boat, around the mast, and then around the shrouds on the other side of the boat
- if the bowline knots get stuck anywhere, grab the knots and physically move them around the shrouds and the mast to the leeward
side of the boat (note: the knots can whip around hard, so it may be easier to grab the jib foot or leech rather than the knots)
- if the jib sheet gets stuck somewhere other than the shrouds or the mast, do whatever it takes to clear the jam, or give LOUD
instructions to the crew about where/how the jib sheet is stuck (e.g., “COCKPIT – SOMEONE'S STANDING ON THE
LAZY”)
- everyone who's not working
-
- move across the boat and sit on the new windward rail
- note: stay on the old rail as long as possible before you move across the boat – having your weight on the old rail
reduces the heel of the boat and increases our boat speed significantly
- tune in to how long it takes you to cross the boat – if you get to the other side early (before the boat starts turning),
try to stay on the old rail a few more seconds the next time we tack
- Rod counts down from 5 to 1 before each tack – as you get comfortable/quicker crossing the boat, try leaving the old rail
later in the countdown
- when you get to the new rail, sit with your weight out as far as possible and put your head under the top lifeline
- heel director
-
- take an active role in directing traffic across the boat: make sure people don't leave the rail too early, and that they cross the
boat quickly
- if the crew crosses the boat slowly, experiment with different crossing orders (i.e., who goes first, second, etc.), and crossing
paths (i.e., in front of the mast or in one of the two lanes under the boom)
- if the crew leaves the rail early (and gets to the other side early), ask people to try leaving the rail a second or two later in
Rod's countdown before the tack
- remind people that when they get to the other side of the boat, they should immediately sit on the rail with their weight out
(butts on the metal toe rail and heads under the lifeline)
- grinder 1
-
- watch for the jib to become back-winded, wait 2 more seconds, then blow the old jib sheet and say “GO”
- in heavy wind, blow the jib sheet earlier (when the jib starts to luff)
- in light wind, wait until the jib is back-winded, ease out the jib sheet with the turn of the boat until the clew gets
around the mast, and then blow the jib sheet
- grind in the new working jib sheet
- when the jib is all the way in, grab the tail end of the jib sheet and tell grinder 2 to “GET THE RUNNER”
- cleat off the jib sheet and help grinder 2 with the runner (if needed)
- clean up 4 lines in the cockpit to prepare for the next tack (do a rectangular sweep):
- low side, working jib sheet: coil the line and put it in the front of the cockpit
- low side, lazy runner: wrap the line around the winch and tension it
- high side, working runner: put the tail end through the porthole
- high side, lazy jib sheet: wrap the line around the winch and tension it
- leave both winch handles in the leeward winches
- before you go up on the rail, take a quick look to see if there are any boats on the leeward side where the driver can't see
(in the 10-12 o'clock or 12-2 o'clock positions)
- grinder 2
-
- wait as long as you can in the captain's countdown
- cross the boat:
- climb down into the cockpit
- take the tail end of the lazy jib sheet in your hand
- climb up on the other side of the boat, sit with your back to the lifelines, and tension the lazy jib sheet (which will soon
become the new working jib sheet)
- bring in the new working jib sheet – pull HARD & FAST as soon as grinder 1 blows the jib sheet, then tail while
grinder 1 grinds
- put on the runner
- skirts
-
- when the captain says “Hard-a-Lee,” get up off the rail and stand or crouch near the shrouds
- watch the jib carefully after it crosses the boat – as the grinders bring in the jib on the new leeward side of the boat,
lift the foot of the jib with your hand and place it inside the lifelines
- as soon as the foot of the jib is inside the lifelines, cross the boat to the new high side, sit on the rail, and put your head
out under the top lifeline
Rounding the Weather Mark
Prior to the Mark
- captain
-
- “port pole / starboard halyard” or “starboard pole / port
halyard”
- “bear-away set” or “jibe set”
- note: for the time being we are always hoisting the spinnaker with a starboard pole and
port halyard, and doing a bear-away set around the mark
- sails handler
-
- bring up the spinnaker turtle and attach it to the pulpit with both clips
- if the wind is light, ask the captain if we want to go with a lighter/bigger spinnaker than our normal 1.5 oz. spinnaker
- attach the spinnaker sheets to the spinnaker clews:
- pull 6 feet of slack for each spinnaker sheet
- clip the spinnaker sheet shackles to the clews, and make sure the shackles are locked tight
- attach the port (red) or starboard (green) spinnaker halyard to the spinnaker head
- note: for the time being we are always hoisting the spinnaker with a starboard pole and
port halyard, so attach the port halyard to the head
- mast
-
- raise the inboard end of the pole a couple of feet (use the gold-colored line on the front of the mast)
- pole
-
- set the outboard end of the pole on the port or starboard side of the bow, depending on the command from the skipper
- note: for the time being we are always hoisting the spinnaker with a starboard pole and
port halyard, so set the pole on the starboard side
- mast
-
- after the last tack on the way to the weather mark, raise the inboard end of the pole to about 6' high
- note: on a typical leeward leg we sail on a broad reach and set the pole high (about 6 feet off the deck); if we have a
reaching leg instead (where we sail on a beam reach after the mark), set the pole low (about 2 feet off the deck)
- note: for a jibe set, we would need to wait to raise the pole until after we go around the mark and jibe, but for the time
being we are not doing jibe sets
- remove the topping lift from the jaws at the inboard end of the pole
- pole
-
- after the last tack on the way to the weather mark, push up the pole until it's parallel with the water
- note: for a jibe set, we would need to wait to raise the pole until after we go around the mark and jibe, but for the time
being we are not doing jibe sets
- mast
-
- pull up the outboard end of the pole with the topping lift until the pole is parallel with the water
- cleat the topping lift at the mast (and cover the cleat with your hand until you see the topping lift locked off at the
console)
- ask the console/cockpit to tension and lock the topping lift
- console
-
- when the deck crew asks you, tension and lock the topping lift
- halyard jumper
-
- get in position next to the correct spinnaker halyard
- the port spinnaker halyard is red and on the left side of the mast; the starboard spinnaker halyard is green and on the
right side of the mast
- note: for the time being we are always hoisting the spinnaker with the port spinnaker halyard
(the red line on the left side of the mast)
- be sure to get in position early – you should be ready to hoist the spinnaker immediately after we get on the last
starboard tack on the way to the weather mark
- halyard tailer
-
- get in position behind the correct winch (see the winches for the port and starboard spinnaker halyards on the
winch diagram)
- note: for the time being we are always hoisting the spinnaker with the port spinnaker halyard
(the red line on the left side of the mast), so get into position behind the winch used for the port spinnaker halyard
- be sure to get in position early – you should be ready to hoist the spinnaker immediately after we get on the last
starboard tack on the way to the weather mark
- grinder 1
-
- for the last tack before the weather mark:
- before the tack, remind grinder 2: "AFTER YOU TAKE OFF THE RUNNER, GET THE SPINNAKER SHEET READY"
- as soon as you're done grinding, tell grinder 2 to "COME IN THE COCKPIT AND GET THE AFTERGUY READY"
- hold the jib sheet and get ready to ease it out
- if grinder 2 hasn't done so already, quickly prepare the port spinnaker sheet:
- untie the slip knot from the spinnaker sheet and move the line from the lazarette cover to the cockpit bench (be sure to route
the line under the main sheet)
- wrap the spinnaker sheet 2 times around the secondary winch and tension it lightly
(don't pull the spinnaker out of the chute)
- grinder 2
-
- for the last tack before the weather mark:
- after you take the runner off the winch, grab the spinnaker sheet from the lazarette cover, and wrap the spinnaker sheet
around the winch two times
- don't bother to put on the new runner – as soon as you're finished tailing, immediately climb down into the cockpit and
stand in the front part of the cockpit
- prepare the pole for the spinnaker hoist:
- uncleat the foreguy
- supervise Nancie/console: make sure she locks the topping lift when the deck crew asks her to do so
- untie the slip knots from both afterguys
- prepare the starboard afterguy:
- wrap the line 2 times around the primary winch and tension it lightly (don't pull the spinnaker out of the chute)
- put a winch handle in the winch, so you can grind the afterguy if you need to
- get ready to bring the pole back as soon as the captain gives the “HOIST” command
- navigator
-
- set the GPS to navigate to the next mark
- boat spotters
-
- measure the time difference between when we round the mark and when your assigned boat rounds the mark (use your stopwatch
if possible)
- tactician
-
- tell Rod if we have an overlap with any boats and what our rights are
At the Mark
- driver
-
- steer down to a broad reach: line up the tip of the Windex with the windward box
- mainsheet
-
- uncleat the mainsheet and let it run out as we turn around the mark
- grinder 1
-
- ease out the jib as we turn around the mark
- navigator
-
- tell Rod the bearing to the next mark (from the cheat sheet)
- if the GPS is already navigating to the next mark, call out the TURN angle to the mark
After the Mark (Spinnaker Hoist)
- JIBE SET (note: for the time being, we are
not doing jibe sets)
- driver
-
- pull the tiller towards you and jibe the boat: turn the boat smoothly and slowly through the jibe
- turn the boat from box to box (i.e., until the tip of the Windex points to the other box)
- mainsheet
-
- jibe the main: grab the mainsheet above the blocks on the traveller (use both hands), and pull the boom over to the othe
side of the boat
- mast + pole
-
- remove the topping lift from the jaws at the inboard end of the pole
- raise the pole
- tension and lock the topping lift
- mainsheet
-
- make sure the mainsheet runs all the way out – the stopper knot at the end of the line should be at the cleat
- move the traveller as far down to the leeward side as it goes
- boom pusher
-
- release the outhaul flattener
- push out the boom until it's as far from the boat as possible – it should be nearly perpendicular to the boat
- lean with your back against the boom – keep it out from the boat as far as possible
- outhaul
-
- release the outhaul flattener (if the boom pusher has not already done so)
- captain
-
- “Is everybody ready?” (foredeck boss, deck boss, and pit boss must all respond)
- “3-2-1, hoist”
- halyard jumper
-
- jump the spinnaker halyard: pull the line down with long arm-over-arm motions, like you're swimming the crawl stroke
- don't break stride – go as fast as you can until the spinnaker is all the way to the top
- yell “MADE” when the spinnaker is at the top
- note: you should be able to complete the hoist without grinding
- halyard tailer
-
- tail the spinnaker halyard:
- start with one wrap around the winch
- pull the line with LONG, FAST arm motions – you must keep up with the jumper in order to avoid overrides
- when the jumper yells “MADE,” add a couple of wraps around the winch and cleat off the halyard with a
perfect cleat
- put the tail end of the spinnaker halyard down the companionway
- after the spinnaker hoist is complete, help lower the jib:
- get in position next to the winch for the jib halyard, uncleat the jib halyard, and hold the line in your hand
- when the foredeck boss asks you to lower the jib, blow the jib halyard (take the line off the winch and let it go)
- after the foredeck boss lowers the jib to the deck, he will raise it again one or two feet (to prepare the jib for the next
hoist) – after this happens, tension and cleat off the jib halyard with a perfect cleat
- grinder 1
-
- cleat off the jib sheet
- pull in the spinnaker sheet quickly to stretch the foot of the spinnaker
(watch for two surges; push foot against cockpit bench for extra leverage)
- if the deck crew asks the cockpit to deflate the spinnaker, release the spinnaker sheet so that they can complete the hoist
- if we get an hourglass (twist) in the spinnaker:
- pull back the spinnaker sheet
- tell grinder 2 to pull back the pole
- tell the deck crew to pull down on the leech (the edge opposite the pole)
- after the hoist, put a handle in the winch with the spinnaker sheet (ask the mainsheet trimmer to do this)
- if the wind is heavy, ask the boom pusher to grind for you
- check the Windex and the pole (pole should be 90° to the wind; not skying; set high for broad reach / low for beam reach)
- remind the crew: "EVERYONE SHOULD GET PREPARED FOR A JIBE"
- ask grinder 2 to put the lazy (starboard) spinnaker sheet on the winch
- confirm that we've done a cowboy (put the lazy spinnaker sheet on top of the pole)
- grinder 2
-
- when the captain gives the “HOIST” command, bring back the pole
- after the foot of the spinnaker comes out of the bag, bring the pole forward again while the foredeck crew completes the hoist
- be quick when you bring the pole back and forward, or the spinnaker will fill with wind and be difficult to hoist
- when the foredeck crew yells “MADE”, bring the pole back again:
- set the pole to about 75° from the 12 o'clock position and cleat off the afterguy
- tension and cleat the foreguy
- if we get an hourglass (twist) in the spinnaker, pull the pole back to stretch out the spinnaker
- prepare for a jibe:
- wrap the lazy afterguy lightly around the winch, but don't tension it – the foredeck
crew needs slack in the line for jibes
- prepare the lazy spinnaker sheet: remove the slip knot from the line, move the line from on top of the lazarette
to the cockpit bench, wrap the line 2 times around the winch, and tension it lightly
- clean up the lines in the cockpit: put the jib sheets and halyards down the companionway
- mast
-
- if there is a bad problem with the hoist, ask the cockpit to deflate the spinnaker so that the deck crew can fix
the problem and complete the hoist (if the problem is not bad, the grinders will continue to fly the spinnaker so that it
can draw power, even though it may take the deck crew a long time to complete the hoist)
- sails handler
-
- if we get an hourglass (twist) in the spinnaker during the hoist, pull down the leech (the edge opposite the pole) to help
remove the twist
- ask the halyard tailer to release the jib halyard
- lower the jib and prepare it for the next hoist (put the head through the pre-feed and into the bottom of the luff track)
- ask the halyard tailer to tension and cleat the jib halyard
- secure the jib to the foredeck with the bungee cords
- cowboy
-
- after the spinnaker hoist is complete, grab the lazy spinnaker sheet (a black and red line) and flick it until it lands on top of
the spinnaker pole
- wrap the lazy spinnaker sheet around the afterguy so that it doesn't fall off the pole (flick it in the same direction you used
to get it on top of the pole)
- boat spotters
-
- call out how far ahead or behind we are with respect to your assigned boat
- call out when your assigned boat hoists its spinnaker
Sailing to Lee
- driver
-
- keep the tip of the Windex lined up with the box
- avoid steering past the box: if the Windex points between the two boxes, the boat may do an accidental jibe
- mainsheet
-
- make sure the mainsheet is all the way out – the stopper knot at the end of the line should be at the cleat
- make sure the traveller is as far down to the leeward side as it goes
- check that the crew has adjusted the mainsail control lines: boom vang on; outhaul flattener, runners, and cunningham off
- clean up the lines in the cockpit – this really reduces the likelihood of the lines getting fouled during jibes or
douses
- grinder 1
-
- trim the spinnaker sheet to get the luff winking (the luff is the upwind edge of the spinnaker on the pole side)
- if it's hard to sheet in, push one foot against the cockpit bench for better leverage, ask the boom pusher to grind
for you, or grind yourself (grinding yourself is better)
- watch the spinnaker and the pole, and ask the crew to make adjustments as necessary:
- if the pole is skying, tell grinder 2 to tension the foreguy
- if the pole is not perpendicular to the wind, tell grinder 2 to move the pole forward or backward
- if the luff is not breaking at about the mid-point, ask the deck crew to move the entire pole up or down
- if we get overpowered, let out the sheet (after the boom vang has been released, and the spinnaker pole has been moved
forward)
- captain
-
- “pole forward” or “pole back”
- grinder 2
-
- bring the pole forward or back so that it stays perpendicular to the direction of the wind
- remember to release/tension the foreguy every time you adjust the afterguy
- watch the pole constantly – if it starts to sky, bring in and lock the foreguy
- clean up the lines in the cockpit and prepare for a jibe or douse
- call out the heel angle periodically, e.g. “heel 15”
- if we get overpowered: (1) take off the boom vang; (2) move the pole forward (in that order)
- mainsheet
-
- grind the spinnaker sheet for grinder 1 if he asks for help
- boom pusher
-
- lean with your back against the boom – keep it out from the boat as far as possible
- boom vang
-
- stay close to either the port or starboard boom vang cleat
- listen closely to the captain – if the boat goes into death rolls and the captain asks you to blow the boom vang,
uncleat the line immediately and let it run free
- navigator
-
- call out the TURN angle to the next mark, and advise Rod on when to jibe (our jibe angle is ~ 60°)
- call out our VMG periodically, as well as before and after we make adjustments (e.g., shift crew weight)
- as soon as anyone spots the mark, tell Rod so he can get a visual to the mark
- boat spotters
-
- watch your assigned boat closely – call out if you see that it has caught good wind on another part of the course and is
moving on us
- call out when your assigned boat jibes
- heel director
-
- ask all crew members who are not working to sit or stand on the leeward side of the boat (the same side as the boom)
- monitor the heel angle closely (ask the grinders to read out the actual heel angle, and remember that our ideal heel angle is
10° to 15°)
- if the wind picks up and the boat heels too much (more than 15°), ask crew members to move to the windward side of the
boat
- if the wind dies down again and the boat heels less than 10°, ask crew members to move back to the leeward side of the
boat
- everyone who's not working
-
- sit on the leeward side of the boat (the same side as the boom) and move your body based on directions from Rod
- call out nearby boats that Rod may not be able to see (including cargo ships if they’re moving)
- call out when you see the mark
- grinder 1
-
- grind in the spinnaker sheet as the boat heads up (fly the spinnaker on a beam reach)
- tell grinder 2 to put the pole forward
- remind the crew to get on the windward rail
- let out the spinnaker sheet as the boat heads down
- grinder 2
-
- as the boat heads up, move the pole forward until it's 3 feet off the forestay
- as the boat heads back down, quickly move the pole back to its normal position
- everyone who's not working
-
- as the boat heads up, move to the windward rail and get your weight out
- as the boat head back down, move back to the leeward side of the boat
Jibing
- pulpit
-
- sit in the pulpit
- identify which hand (left or right) you will use to hold the new afterguy
- a crew member will bring you the new afterguy and the new jib sheet
- grab the afterguy with your hand so that it runs from your pinky to the cockpit (“pinky-to-pit”)
- bend your arm at the elbow and put the new jib sheet in the bend of your arm
- pole
-
- bring the lazy afterguy and the new jib sheet to the crew member in the pulpit
- note: the lazy afterguy and the new jib sheet are both on the side of the boat opposite the pole
- mast
-
- if the pole is set low (when we're on a beam reach instead of a broad reach), raise the mast end of the pole before the jibe so
that the pole has room to swing across the boat
- take command of the topping lift: grab the topping lift in your hand and ask the cockpit/console to release the topping lift
- console
-
- when the deck crew asks you, unlock the topping lift (this lets the deck crew control the topping lift from the mast)
- grinder 1
-
- prepare the new (lazy) spinnaker sheet: wrap the line lightly twice around the winch
- when the pulpit person is sitting in the pulpit, tell grinder 2 to bring the pole forward 4 feet
- after grinder 2 moves the pole forward 4 feet:
- let out the working spinnaker sheet 4 feet (the spinnaker flies better bare pole when it's further in front of the boat)
- tension the new (lazy) spinnaker sheet and hold it in your hand (you should be holding both sheets at this point)
- tell grinder 2: “I HAVE BOTH SHEETS”
- watch the Windex to see what the spinnaker will do when the deck crew trips the pole
- grinder 2
-
- when grinder 1 gives the command, move the pole forward 4 feet
- uncleat the foreguy
- captain
-
- “Is everybody ready?” (foredeck boss, deck boss, and pit boss must all respond)
- “trip the pole”
- driver
-
- pull the tiller towards you and jibe the boat: turn the boat smoothly and slowly through the jibe
- turn the boat from box to box (i.e., until the tip of the Windex points to the other box)
- pole
-
- trip the pole to release it from the working afterguy
- note: to trip the pole, pull back on the blue cord attached to the outboard pole jaws – this works better than
pulling down on the red cord
- guide the pole down to the crew member in the pulpit
- open the pole jaws to make it easier for the crew member in the pulpit to put in the new afterguy
- mast
-
- take the topping lift out of the cleat (if it's cleated) and lower the pole slowly
- pulpit
-
- a crew member will guide the spinnaker pole down to you
- take the old jib sheet off the top of the pole and drop it down to the deck
- guide the pole under the forestay and across the boat
- take the new jib sheet from the bend of your arm and put it on top of the pole
- open the jaws at the end of the pole (if they're not already open)
- put the new afterguy in the open jaws at the end of the pole, with your pinky resting against the jaws
(“pinky-to-pole”)
- take an extra second to double-check that the afterguy is in the correct orientation and that the jib sheet is routed
correctly
- call out “MADE” loud enough so that everyone in the back of the boat can hear you
- hold on to the new afterguy until the grinders tension the line (this reduces the likelihood of the line looping around
the end of the pole)
- watch the pole as it's being raised – if you see any problem (e.g., the afterguy loops around the end of the pole),
call out “HALT, RESET THE POLE,” ask the crew to bring the pole back down to the pulpit, and fix the problem
- mast
-
- relay the “MADE” command to the crew in the cockpit
- raise the pole with the topping lift
- cleat the topping lift at the mast (and cover the cleat with your hand until you see the topping lift locked off at the
console)
- ask the console/cockpit to tension and lock the topping lift
- pole
-
- raise the pole so that it's parallel with the water, and push out the pole to the donut on the afterguy
- if you see any problem as you raise the pole (e.g., the afterguy loops around the end of the pole), call out
“HALT, RESET THE POLE,” bring the pole back down to the pulpit, and fix the problem
- console
-
- when the deck crew asks you, tension and lock the topping lift
- sails handler
-
- if the spinnaker collapses while the grinders are flying it bare-pole, grab the windward clew (the corner on the opposite side
of the boom), and hold the clew out on the leeward side of the boat, as far away from the boat as possible – this will help
the spinnaker fill up again
- if we get an hourglass (twist) in the spinnaker during the hoist, pull down the leech (the edge opposite the pole) to help
remove the twist
- grinder 1
-
- as the boat turns, duck under the boom and let out the old spinnaker sheet another 4 feet or so (this is the same line you
let out when grinder 2 moved the pole forward)
- watch the Windex and make small, simultaneous adjustments to the two sheets to keep the spinnaker square to the wind
- if the spinnaker collapses:
- ask the deck crew to hold the windward clew out as far as possible
- if the spinnaker gets an hourglass (twist), pull back both sheets to separate the clews (ask grinder 2 for help)
- when the pole is on its way back after the jibe, release the old sheet and fly the spinnaker using the new sheet
- wait for a couple of seconds before releasing the old sheet – make sure the new afterguy has been made properly
- move the winch handle to the winch with the new sheet (ask the mainsheet trimmer to do this)
- grinder 2
-
- uncleat the old afterguy
- as the boat turns, duck under the boom
- prepare the new afterguy: wrap the line lightly around the winch, but don't tension it – the foredeck crew needs slack
in the line
- when the foredeck crew says “MADE,” pull back the new afterguy until the pole is at about 75°
- tension and cleat the foreguy
- clean up the lines in cockpit to prepare for another jibe
- mainsheet
-
- call out “Watch your head!”
- look to make sure that all crew members near the boom are clear of its crossing path
- jibe the main:
- grab the mainsheet as close to the boom as you can, and pull the mainsheet toward you arm-over-arm
- as the boom begins to cross the boat, move and turn your body so that the mainsheet passes around you toward the stern
- as the mainsheet passes between you and the stern, sit on the new windward bench (the side the boom came from) while still
holding onto the bundle of sheets, then let the boom out to the new leeward side in a controlled way
- move the traveller to the new leeward side as far down as it goes
- modifications for light or heavy wind:
- in light wind, hold the boom just past the centerline of the boat, and let it swing out to the new leeward side at the end
of the jibe (this makes the spinnaker less likely to collapse)
- in heavy wind, you may need to do a power jibe – pull in the mainsheet through the blocks, as if you were trimming
the main
- boom pusher
-
- crouch down on the deck, let the boom pass over you as the boat turns, and lean back against the boom after it has crossed to the
other side of the boat
- heel director
-
- make sure everyone crosses the boat to the new leeward side of the boat (the same side as the boom)
- everyone who's not working
-
- move across the boat to the new leeward side (the same side as the boom)
Rounding the Leeward Mark
Prior to the Mark
- captain
-
- “jib up”
- if the wind has gotten lighter or heavier, the crew should ask the captain if we want to switch jibs
- sails handler
-
- remove the bungee cords that are on top of the jib
- tell the jumper to start jumping the jib halyard
- halyard jumper
-
- get in position next to the jib halyard (on the port side of the mast)
- jump the jib halyard: grab the line with both hands and pull it down and away from the mast, using STRONG, HARD motions
- halyard tailer
-
- get in position behind the winch for the jib halyard (see winch diagram)
- tail the jib halyard:
- start with one wrap around the winch
- pull the line with LONG, FAST arm motions – you must keep up with the jumper in order to avoid overrides
- when it becomes too hard for the jumper to pull the halyard by hand, add a couple of wraps around the winch and tell the
halyard grinder to start grinding
- when the captain or deck captain yells “MADE”, cleat off the jib halyard with a
perfect cleat
- put the tail end of the jib halyard down the companionway
- halyard grinder
-
- grab the winch handle from the plastic pocket on the port side of the mast
- get in position next to the winch for the jib halyard (see winch diagram)
- the halyard tailer will pull the jib halyard by hand, then wrap the halyard a couple of times around the winch and ask you to
start grinding – when he does so, put the winch handle in the winch and grind the jib halyard (clockwise first,
then counter-clockwise)
- stop grinding when the captain or deck captain yells “MADE” (“MADE” means the jib is all the way to the
top)
- outhaul
-
- put on the outhaul flattener – make sure to do this BEFORE the leeward (downwind) mark, as it's much harder to tighten
the outhaul flattener sufficiently once we're sailing to weather (into the wind)
- navigator
-
- set the GPS to navigate to the next mark
- boat spotters
-
- measure the time difference between when we round the mark and when your assigned boat rounds the mark (use your stopwatch
if possible)
- tactician
-
- tell Rod if we have an overlap with any boats and what our rights are
- captain
-
- “floater douse” or “Mexican douse” or
“stretch-foot douse”
- “port” or “starboard” (which side the
spinnaker will come down on)
FLOATER DOUSE |
MEXICAN DOUSE |
- trip the pole and fly the spinnaker bare-pole
- start heading up (turning into the wind)
- bring the spinnaker to the windward side
- douse the spinnaker
|
- trip the pole and fly the spinnaker bare-pole
- jibe the boat
- start heading up (turning into the wind)
- bring the spinnaker to the windward side
- douse the spinnaker
|
STRETCH-FOOT DOUSE |
- prior to the mark, stretch the foot on the leeward side
- douse the spinnaker
|
The floater douse and the Mexican douse are windward douses –
the crew brings the spinnaker around to the windward side of the boat. The difference between a floater douse and a Mexican douse
is that in a Mexican douse, the boat jibes before heading up. The crew must do a Mexican douse when the boat is on the opposite tack
than the side required for rounding the mark – e.g., the boat is on starboard tack and it must do a port rounding
(see Figure 5), or the boat is on port tack and it must do a starboard rounding. When doing a
Mexican douse, the foredeck crew drops the pole before the jibe, and the grinders execute the spinnaker jibe without the pole.
The stretch-foot douse is a leeward douse – the crew stretches and douses the spinnaker along
the leeward side of the boat. The entire douse is completed before the mark. (In contrast, for a floater or Mexican douse, the crew
douses the spinnaker as the boat turns around the mark.)
The captain announces “PORT” or “STARBOARD” to indicate which side of the boat the spinnaker will be
lowered on. This call applies regardless of whether we're doing a floater douse, Mexican douse, or stretch-foot douse.
- STRETCH-FOOT DOUSE
- sails handler
-
- make sure the spinnaker grabbers are in position
- remind the spinnaker grabbers that they need to bring the spinnaker OVER the lifelines and UNDER the jib sheet
- open the foredeck hatch
- spinnaker grabbers
-
- get in position on the port or starboard side of the mast (based on Rod's call of which side the spinnaker is coming down on)
- remind yourself and the other grabbers “OVER–UNDER”: you need to bring the spinnaker OVER the lifelines and
UNDER the jib sheet
- spinnaker halyard release
-
- get in position next to the winch for the starboard or port spinnaker halyard (depending on which halyard is holding up the
spinnaker during the current spinnaker set)
- note: for the time being, we are always hoisting the spinnaker with the port spinnaker halyard
- prepare the halyard to make sure it will run free: take the tail end out of the companionway and coil it neatly on the deck
- measure out 12 feet of halyard behind the cleat (about 2 arm lenghts)
- untie the cleat, and unwrap the halyard from the winch until there's only one wrap left
- continue to hold the halyard with one wrap around the winch, and move your body into a position where you can see the spinnaker
as it comes down
- grinder 1
-
- give 5 reminders to crew:
- outhaul flattener (Foss) – put on the outhaul flattener when we're close to the mark
- halyard release (Robin) – you're on release for a stretch-foot douse / _____;
send people to the rail as soon as you have control of the spinnaker
- skirts (Nat) – remember to give me a skirt
- (grabbers) – put the spinnaker OVER the lifelines and UNDER the jib sheets
- captain (Rod) – the command is “stretch-and-drop”
- grinder 2
-
- trim the jib for a broad reach, and cleat off the jib sheet
- captain
-
- “Is everybody ready?” (foredeck boss, deck boss, and pit boss must all respond)
- “stretch-and-drop”
- grinder 1
-
- bring in the spinnaker sheet hard to stretch the foot of the spinnaker along the leeward side of the boat
- when the deck crew has control of the spinnaker, release the spinnaker sheet
- clean up the cockpit and prepare to bring in the jib for a close haul
- climb up on the rail and prepare to tail the jib sheet for grinder 2
- grinder 2
-
- bring the pole all the way forward until it's 2 feet off the forestay
- tension and lock the foreguy
- clean up the cockpit and prepare to bring in the jib for a close haul
- mainsheet
-
- if grinder 1 asks for help, grind or tail the spinnaker sheet
- spinnaker halyard release
-
- when the captain gives the “STRETCH-AND-DROP” command, immediately release the 12 feet of halyard you measured off
before
- after you release the initial 12 feet, continue to release the halyard at a quick but controlled pace – fast enough so that
the spinnaker grabbers don't have to slow down and wait for you as they haul in the spinnaker, but not so fast that the spinnaker
falls in the water
- as soon as the spinnaker grabbers have the spinnaker under control, release the halyard completely
- after the douse, sit on the windward rail as soon as possible and put your head out under the top lifeline
- spinnaker grabbers
-
- grab the spinnaker as soon as you can reach it, and start pulling it down – use BIG arm motions to pull it down as quickly
as you can
- put the spinnaker OVER THE TOP LIFELINE and down on the deck
- after the spinnaker is down on the deck, stuff it UNDER THE JIB SHEET and down the hatch
- sit on the windward rail as soon as possible and put your head out under the top lifeline
- sails handler
-
- detach the spinnaker sheets from the clews as you stuff the spinnaker in the sewer: unclip the shackles from the clews
and attach them to the lifelines
- detach the spinnaker halyard: unclip the shackle, look up to make sure the halyard is clear, and attach the halyard to the
base of the mast
- close the foredeck hatch
- mast
-
- take command of the topping lift: grab the topping lift in your hand and ask the cockpit/console to release the topping lift
- lower the outboard end of the pole to the foredeck
- lower the inboard end of the pole to the deck
- put the topping lift in the pole jaws at the inboard end of the pole
- ask the cockpit to tension and lock the topping lift
- pole
-
- guide the pole down to the foredeck
- slide the outboard end of the pole between the pulpit and the stanchion that's closest to the pulpit
- quadruple-check that the jib sheets are on top of the pole
- sails handler
-
- bring the spinnaker sheets and the afterguys forward and clip them to the pulpit
- ask the crew to tie Siberian hitch knots in the spinnaker sheets and the afterguys
- grinder 2
-
- when the deck crew asks you, release the topping lift
- after the deck crew lowers the pole, tension and lock the topping lift (and check that the deck crew has secured the topping
lift in the pole jaws)
- tension and lock the foreguy
- FLOATER or MEXICAN DOUSE
- grinder 1
-
- give 5 reminders to crew:
- outhaul flattener (Foss) – put on the outhaul flattener when we're close to the mark
- halyard release (Robin) – you're on release for a _____ douse / _____; send people to the rail as soon as
you have control of the spinnaker
- pole/skirts (Nat) – trip the pole immediately if it's still up when Rod counts down; remember to give me a skirt
- mainsheet (John) – coil the spinnaker sheets on the cockpit bench and take out the winch handle;
(and then start bringing in the mainsheet for the mark rounding)
- captain (Rod) – TRIP-TEN (i.e., trip the pole before you start counting down from ten)
- tell 3 things to grinder 2:
- trim the jib:
- floater douse – loose close haul
- Mexican douse – broad reach
- pole forward 4 feet
- when grinder 2 moves the pole forward, let the spinnaker sheet out 4 feet
- grab both sheets and tell grinder 2 “I HAVE BOTH SHEETS”
- jib sheet and winch:
- floater douse –
- get the winch with the jib sheet ready for you to grind
- Mexican douse –
- after the deck crew trips the pole, put on the lazy jib sheet and tension it until the jib has a hook in it
- get the winch with the lazy jib sheet ready for you to grind
- when I say “POP IT,” you pop the old jib sheet and start grinding the new jib sheet
- watch the Windex to see what the spinnaker will do when the deck crew trips the pole
- grinder 2
-
- trim the jib:
- floater douse – loose close haul
- Mexican douse – broad reach
- tension both jib sheets so that the lines do not slip under the pole during the douse
- when the deck crew asks you, unlock the topping lift
- when grinder 1 asks you, move the pole forward 4 feet
- mast
-
- take command of the topping lift: grab the topping lift in your hand and ask the cockpit/console to release the topping lift
- captain
-
- “Is everybody ready?” (foredeck boss, deck boss, and pit boss must all respond)
- “trip the pole”
- pole
-
- trip the pole by pulling back on the blue cord attached to the pole jaws on the outboard end (this works better than pulling
down on the red cord)
- guide the pole down to the foredeck
- slide the outboard end of the pole between the pulpit and the stancion that's closest to the pulpit
- quadruple-check that the jib sheets are on top of the pole
- mast
-
- lower the outboard end of the pole to the foredeck
- lower the inboard end of the pole to about 3' (leave enough room below the pole for the hatch to open)
- put the topping lift in the pole jaws at the inboard end of the pole
- ask the cockpit to tension and lock the topping lift
- spinnaker halyard release
-
- get in position next to the winch for the starboard or port spinnaker halyard (depending on which halyard is holding up the
spinnaker during the current spinnaker set)
- note: for the time being, we are always hoisting the spinnaker with the port spinnaker halyard
- prepare the halyard to make sure it will run free: take the tail end out of the companionway and coil it neatly on the deck
- uncleat the halyard and hold it in your hand
- sails handler
-
- if the spinnaker collapses while the grinders are flying it bare-pole, grab the windward clew (the corner on the opposite side
of the boom), and hold the clew out on the windward side of the boat, as far away from the boat as possible – this will help the
spinnaker fill up again (if you're busy, ask another crew member to hold out the clew)
- make sure the spinnaker grabbers are in position
- remind the crew member handling skirts to lift the foot of the jib inside the lifelines as we go around the mark
- open the foredeck hatch
- spinnaker grabbers
-
- grabber # 1: get in position on the port or starboard side of the mast (based on Rod's call of which side the spinnaker is
coming down on)
- all other grabbers: get in position on the port or starboard side of the foredeck (based on Rod's call of which side the
spinnaker is coming down on)
- prepare to grab the spinnaker when it is doused
- grinder 1
-
- fly the spinnaker bare-pole
- when the deck crew trips the pole, watch the spinnaker closely –
if the spinnaker swings to leeward, bring in the spinnaker sheet (fly the spinnaker as if on a reach)
- watch the Windex and make small, simultaneous adjustments to the spinnaker sheets to keep the spinnaker flying
- if the spinnaker collapses:
- ask the deck crew to hold the windward clew out as far as possible
- try different things: e.g., let the spinnaker sheets out, or bring them in
- if we're close to the mark, just release one sheet and bring the spinnaker around to the windward side
(for a Mexican douse, wait until after the boat jibes so the spinnaker doesn't foul the jib)
- grinder 2
-
- floater douse:
- prepare the winch with the jib sheet so you can start grinding as we round the mark
(the working jib sheet should have 3 wraps and there should be a handle in the winch)
- Mexican douse:
- after the deck crew trips the pole, uncleat the afterguy and take the afterguy off the winch
- put the lazy jib sheet on the winch and tension it (tighten the lazy jib sheet to the point where the jib has a hook in it)
- prepare the winch so you can start grinding as we round the mark
(the lazy jib sheet should have 3 wraps and there should be a handle in the winch)
- mainsheet
-
- coil the spinnaker sheets and put them on top of the cockpit bench
At the Mark (Spinnaker Douse)
- mainsheet
-
- a bit before the mark, move the traveller just past the wood rail on the windward side
- you only need to move the traveller for a floater douse or stretch-foot douse (in a Mexican douse, we jibe around the mark,
so the traveller will end up on the windward side)
- bring in the mainsheet for a close haul
- there's a lot of line to bring in, so start early – in heavy wind, start about one boat length before the mark
- if we're doing a Mexican douse, jibe the mainsail
- driver
-
- floater douse: steer up to a close haul
- Mexican douse: jibe the boat quickly and steer up to a close haul
- stretch-foot douse: steer up to a close haul
- FLOATER or MEXICAN DOUSE
- grinder 1
-
FLOATER DOUSE
- when the bow is even with the mark, blow the working spinnaker sheet (usually the starboard sheet)
- if Rod counts down from 10, blow the sheet on 7
- in strong wind, blow the sheet earlier (~ 9)
- bring in the lazy (windward) spinnaker sheet FAST
- climb up on the rail immediately after you finish bringing the spinnaker back
- (if necessary, pull the spinnaker sheet and/or the clew to bring the spinnaker back farther)
- sit down and brace yourself to tail
- tail for grinder 2
- put on the runner
MEXICAN DOUSE
- when the boat jibes, blow the old windward spinnaker sheet (usually the starboard sheet)
- if Rod counts down from 10, blow the sheet on 7 (we want to bring the spinnaker around later for a Mexican douse
than for a floater douse)
- in strong wind, blow the sheet earlier (~ 9)
- say “POP IT” when you blow the spinnaker sheet
- bring in the new windward spinnaker sheet FAST
- climb up on the rail immediately after you finish bringing the spinnaker back
- (if necessary, pull the spinnaker sheet and/or the clew to bring the spinnaker back farther)
- sit down and brace yourself to tail
- tail for grinder 2
- put on the runner
- grinder 2
-
FLOATER DOUSE
- grind in the jib for a full close haul
- cleat off the jib sheet and tell grinder 1 to “GET THE RUNNER”
- climb up on the rail as soon as possible
MEXICAN DOUSE
- when grinder 1 says “POP IT,” blow the old jib sheet
- grind in the new jib sheet for a full close haul
- cleat off the jib sheet and tell grinder 1 to “GET THE RUNNER”
- climb up on the rail as soon as possible
- spinnaker grabbers
-
- grabber at mast: grab the spinnaker leech as high and as early as you can, and pull the spinnaker down
- grabbers on foredeck:
- grab the foot of the spinnaker as it comes in behind you, and put it over your head and in front of you
- after the foot of the spinnaker is in front of you, get up on your knees so you can reach higher to grab the spinnaker
as it comes down
- mast
-
- repeat “DOUSE IT” command
- note that the captain does not always give the “DOUSE IT” command – watch the spinnaker as it comes around
to the side of the boat, and remind the crew on halyard release to blow the halyard as soon as the spinnaker is clear of the
forestay
- spinnaker halyard release
-
- look at the spinnaker as the grinders pull it around to the windward side
- as soon as the spinnaker comes around to the side of the boat and is clear of the forestay, blow the halyard – remove
the wraps from the winch and let the halyard go
- feed the halyard to the block at the base of the mast so that the spinnaker drops down as quicly as possible
- after the douse, sit on the windward rail as soon as possible and put your head out under the top lifeline
- spinnaker grabbers
-
- grab the spinnaker as it comes down and put it down on the deck – use BIG arm motions to pull down the spinnaker
as quickly as you can
- after the spinnaker is down on the deck, stuff it down the hatch (make sure the spinnaker does not get fouled up in any lines)
- sit on the windward rail as soon as possible and put your head out under the top lifeline
- sails handler
-
- detach the spinnaker sheets from the clews as you stuff the spinnaker in the sewer: unclip the shackles from the clews and
attach them to the lifelines
- detach the spinnaker halyard: unclip the shackle, look up to make sure the halyard is clear, and attach the halyard to the base of
the mast
- close the foredeck hatch
- bring the spinnaker sheets and the afterguys forward and clip them to the pulpit
- ask the crew to tie Siberian hitch knots in the spinnaker sheets and the afterguys
- mast
-
- after the hatch is closed, lower the inboard end of the pole all the way
- skirts
-
- as we round the mark, grab the foot of the jib and place it inside the lifelines
- note if you are also a spinnaker grabber: taking care of a skirt is critical at this point, and takes precedence over stuffing
the spinnaker down the hatch – as soon as the deck crew has control of the spinnaker, you should grab the foot of the jib
and place it inside the lifelines; this lets the grinders bring in the jib without pausing, which is crucial to getting
our boat speed up
- as soon as the foot of the jib is inside the lifelines, sit on the rail and put your head out under the top lifeline
- grinder 2
-
STRETCH-FOOT DOUSE
- make sure the working jib sheet is prepped: the line should have 3 wraps and there should be a handle in the winch
- wait until we start heading up, then grind in the jib for a close haul
- cleat off the jib sheet and tell grinder 1 to “GET THE RUNNER”
- climb up on the rail as soon as possible
- grinder 1
-
STRETCH-FOOT DOUSE
- climb up on the rail, tension the jib sheet, and tail for grinder 2
- put on the runner
- navigator
-
- tell Rod the bearing to next mark (from the cheat sheet)
- if the GPS is already navigating to the next mark, call out the TURN angle to the mark
After the Mark
- mainsheet
-
- check that the crew has adjusted the mainsail control lines: boom vang off; outhaul flattener on; runner on (if close hauled);
cunningham – tensioned just enough to get rid of wrinkles in the luff; leech line – tensioned just enough
to stop the leech from fluttering
- heel director
-
- as we round the leeward (downwind) mark, the crew will be busy gathering the spinnaker and preparing the boat for tacks, but
make sure that as soon as everyone is finished working they sit up on the rail with their weight out as far as possible (butts on the
metal toe rail and heads under the lifeline) – the sooner we get more weight on the rail the sooner we get our speed up
- grinder 1
-
- tell the crew "GET ON THE RAIL AS SOON AS YOU CAN"
- check that the outhaul flattener is on
- check that the boom vang is off
- after the deck crew is sitting on the rail, put on the cunningham just enough to get rid of wrinkles in the luff
- grinder 2
-
- after the deck crew is sitting on the rail, go back down in the cockpit and clean up the lines:
- afterguys and spinnaker sheets:
- put the afterguys in the companionway
- coil the spinnaker sheets and put them on top of the lazarettes near the stern (route them under the mainsheet)
- after the lines have been brought forward and clipped to the bow pulpit, make sure the lines run outside the lifelines
along the rail, and put Siberian hitch knots near the blocks (or ask the deck crew and mainsheet trimmer to do so)
- jib sheets and runners (do a rectangular sweep):
- low side, working jib sheet: coil the line and put it in the front of the cockpit
- low side, lazy runner: take the line out of the porthole, wrap the line around the winch, tension it, and put in a
winch handle
- high side, working runner: put the tail end through the porthole
- high side, lazy jib sheet: wrap the line around the winch and tension it
- winches: put handles in the leeward winches
- pole lines:
- topping lift: tension and cleat the line; double-check that the line is secured in the pole jaws
- foreguy: tension and cleat the line
- boat spotters
-
- call out how far ahead or behind we are with respect to your assigned boat
- spinnaker packer
-
- pack the spinnaker into the turtle using the “speed pack” procedure
- spinnaker pack assist
-
- help the spinnaker packer pack the spinnaker – find the corners of the spinnaker, stretch out the edges, put on the
turtle lid, etc.
Finish
- boat spotters
-
- reset your stopwatch
- if your assigned boat is ahead of us:
- start your stopwatch when your assigned boat crosses the finish line (listen for a short air horn blast from the race
committee when your assigned boat crosses the line)
- call out how far behind we are when we cross the finish line (listen for a short air horn blast when we cross the line)
- leave your stopwatch running in case we want to find out how far behind us other boats are
- if we are ahead of your assigned boat:
- start your stopwatch when we cross the finish line (listen for a short air horn blast from the race committee when
we cross the line)
- call out how far ahead we are when your assigned boat crosses the finish line (listen for a short air horn blast when
your assigned boat crosses the line)
- leave your stopwatch running in case we want to find out how far behind us other boats are
- deck boss, foredeck boss, and pit boss
-
- immediately after we cross the finish line:
- make sure somebody is on the jib halyard, ready to lower the jib
- make sure somebody is on the main halyard, ready to lower the main
- make sure somebody is on the boom lift, ready to put it on
- note: nobody should touch the main halyard until they confirm that the boom lift is on
- mast + sails handler
-
- take down the jib
- take down the main
- secure the spinnaker sheets and the afterguys – when all the lines are secure say
“LINES SECURE”
- mainsheet
-
- center the traveller
- release the twanger
- make sure the crew releases or loosens the control lines for the mainsail: boom vang, outhaul flattener, runners, cunningham,
leech line
- below deck
-
- turn on one of the batteries
- if it's after sunset and you haven't done so already, turn on the running lights
- when we get back to the dock, operate the engine kill switch and the battery switch per directions from Rod
- navigator
-
- tell Andy the waypoint number of the waypoint you entered for the race committee boat (e.g., waypoint # 012)
- grinder 1
-
- take care of 4 electronic items:
- GPS watch:
- press LAP (= lower button) when we cross the finish line, and call out the TOD
- if we cross the line at the same time as another boat, call out their sail number
- note how far behind other boats cross the line (call out the times)
- stop the watch timer
- GoPro camera: turn off the camera and bring it up to the yacht club (for the old camera, just bring up the memory card)
- handheld radio: put the radio in the cubby, or if the battery is low, leave the radio in the charging cradle
- GPS unit: ask the navigator for the waypoint # of the race committee boat and get the coordinates
from the GPS unit (note that the RC boat will probably be the last waypoint entered, i.e., the highest waypoint #)
- secure the spinnaker sheets and the afterguys
- grinder 2
-
- put on the boom lift
- secure the spinnaker sheets and the afterguys
- everyone who's not working
-
- confirm that there are no lines in the water before Rod turns on the engine
- thank the race committee on the way in to our slip
- take the fenders out of the lazarette and hang them on the lifelines
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